The Perfumed Parlour

By ~ Dolce & Gabbana

2012-01-21T14:13:00.002-04:00

This ultra-sexy perfume is for the self-assured woman who knows what she wants - and goes after it. If Lovely epitomizes Sarah Jessica Parker's Carrie in Sex and the City, then By would be worn by Samantha. Launched in 1998, By was popular in Europe, but never took off here in States, partly because the 90s were all about "fresh" scents. It's too bad, because I think if it had been introduced a few years earlier, it would have gotten the recognition it deserves.

First impression reveals a bright citrusy bergamot, but very quickly takes a deeper turn: it doesn't take long for its inner growl to emerge. After it's settled, it smells like a coffee/bourbon/sandalwood second skin, with subtle white florals weaving in and out of the composition now and then. Vanilla is there, but very restrained, lending the composition a round smoothness. The whole effect is really quite intoxicating. It's definitely an evening scent.

I would classify it as a woody oriental. Sillage and longevity are excellent. I believe it's been discontinued, but it can still be found from internet discounters (though a tad pricey). However, if you're looking for a distinctive perfume with personality, it would be worth searching out a bottle. I adore the animal print!

Official notes: clementine, bergamot, freesia, osmanthus, tiger-lily, orange flower, sandalwood, cedarwood, coffee, musk.

Fancy ~ Jessica Simpson

2012-01-14T18:39:00.005-04:00

I've learned to put aside celebrity names (and my sometimes negative associations with them) and judge their perfumes based on merit. After all, they are developed by professional noses, and sometimes you can stumble upon a little gem (Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker comes to mind).

My wonderful daughter is visiting this week from Denver, and she brought with her a bottle of Fancy. I spritzed away, not expecting much, but was surprised how much I enjoyed it. A sweet comfort scent, the opening reveals a fruity floral with LOTS of amber (a favorite note of mine), so I'm sure that's what won me over so quickly. It vacillates between creamy and dessert-like to a drier woody-oriental. Gardenia and jasmine are listed in the notes, but I don't detect much of either, so I wouldn't worry about them if don't like white florals. Overall, it's one of those fragrances that I would reach for when I need my perfume to give me a warm hug. It's not sophisticated or terribly complex, but sometimes that's OK. If you dislike sweet perfume, stay away from this one!

The bottle is a bit gaudy for my taste, but I suppose appeals to the target market of 20-somethings who like pop music.

Official notes: pear, apricot nectar, red fruits, gardenia, jasmine, toasted almonds, caramel, sandalwood, vanilla crème and amber crystals

Happy sniffing!

Barbara

Allure Sensuelle ~ Chanel

2011-12-31T00:08:00.010-04:00

Created in 2006 by perfumer Jacques Polge (who also created my beloved Coco), Allure Sensuelle is ravishing. Nothing like its sister-scent Allure, this beauty should have been given her own name, rather than relegated to mere flanker status. She has a distinct personality.

Living up to the Chanel name, it starts out BIG. When you first try it, apply sparingly, and be patient. Give it a few minutes to settle and it warms and softens beautifully on the skin. The opening reveals spicy florals and a lovely, subtle fruity sweetness, but the real reward is when the rich basenotes appear: frankincense, sandalwood, exotic spices, and bourbon vanilla lend the composition a smokey sexiness that is unmatched in most modern perfumes. I'm very surprised that this hasn't received more attention, but that can be a good thing...those that love it are in on a beautiful secret!

While I firmly believe any perfume can be worn during any season, this is really best in the colder months, and shines in the evening.

Official notes: Top notes contain bergamot, mandarin and pink pepper. The heart is composed of jasmine, rose, iris, candied fruits and vetiver followed by the base notes of French vanilla, amber, patchouli and frankincense. Just the right amount of sillage and tremendous lasting power.

Maitresse ~ Agent Provocateur

2011-12-07T20:22:00.005-04:00

First of all, how fantastic is this bottle? Reminiscent of Toulouse-Lautrec's late 19th century paintings of risque Parisians, I fell in love with it immediately. I was hoping the fragrance would be equally wonderful, and it is.

The total effect is a feminine melange of intoxicating notes. Based on aldehydes, and opening like a classic French perfume, you are immediately greeted by white lotus petals, delicate nuances of ylang-ylang, and violet leaves. The heart opens up with osmanthus, jasmine, and rose, and its base reveals powdery iris, amber, patchouli, and white suede.

Save it for the boudoir and romantic evenings out. Light application; a little goes a long way!

For The Men: Dirty English ~ Juicy Couture

2011-12-04T23:10:00.010-04:00

Dirty English first debuted in 2008, eager to tap into the young male market that was tired of "fresh" scents that smelled like soap. They delivered. This is a surprisingly sophisticated woody-oriental that would smell great on a man of any age.

The opening is uber-masculine: leather, cypress, and agarwood make their presence known immediately. A boozy/whiskey vibe emerges later which gives it a bad-boy edge. Cardamom and caraway add spice, and the finish is a sexy amber-musk. Sillage and longevity are excellent. It was nominated for a FiFi award in 2009.

I could see guys like Colin Farrell and Olivier Martinez wearing this well. You do have to have presence to pull it off. Really love the rugged bottle.

Official notes: Blue Cypress, Mandarin, Bergamot, Black Leather, Sandalwood, Amber Musk, Atlas Cedar, Vetiver, Wood, Black Moss Absolute

Freak ~ Illamasqua

2011-12-01T16:55:00.018-04:00

The debut fragrance by London based cosmetics company Illamasqua, Freak is an attempt to appeal to the "fringe" consumer looking for an edgy scent. Since I fall into that demographic, I was very excited to get my sample, and today it arrived.

It opens with a chilly, metallic edge which soon gives way to a floral/fruity heart. The base reveals a smoky, dirty musk with whispers of patchouli and other woods. It does give the impression of being outdoors in a garden under the moonlight, but does it live up to its "daringly provocative" tagline? No. It certainly isn't as voluptuous or as magical as its notes suggest. That said, I was not completely disappointed. It's a good fragrance that I will revisit often. And it goes without saying that the bottle is fabulous!

Official notes:
top: Black Davana, Opium Flower and Belladonna. heart: Poison Hemlock, Datura and Queen of the Night blossom. base: Aromas of Frankincense, Oud and Myrrh.

Holiday Fragrances

2011-11-20T14:01:00.007-04:00

Looking for a great fragrance to wear or give as a gift? I've compiled some of my favorite scents that are perfect for the holidays.

For the ladies:

Brit Red (Burberry) ~ With its spicy gingerbread note, it's made for Christmas. The red plaid bottle is so cute, too. Read my review here.

Brit Gold (Burberry) ~ Another offering from Burberry, this is a spicy vanilla fragrance with a gorgeous musk/sandalwood drydown. Warm and comforting.

Wrappings (Clinique) ~ This is officially discontinued, but worth finding on the internet if you can. Crisp, clean, and as refreshing as a winter day, this has a deserved cult following. Smells like a Christmas tree draped with flowers; unusual and very beautiful.

Jungle (Kenzo) ~ One of my absolute favorites in general, but it glows during the holidays. I've been followed around by women asking what I'm wearing when I have this on. Read my review here.

For the Men:

London (Burberry) ~ Oh, how I adore this! It's one of my top 5 favorite men's fragrances, and it is just made to be worn during the holidays (Burberry seems to have a theme going!). A spicy freshness that is so masculine. Read my review here.

L'eau Bleue D'Issey (Issey Miyake) ~ Cool, fresh, crisp, and herbal, this is a stunner. It has been discontinued, but is still relatively easy to find on the internet. Perfect for a man who likes to smell "clean" but not predictable. Handsome bottle.

M7 (Yves Saint Laurent) ~ Another amazing fragrance (created by Tom Ford) that has been discontinued. Has a distinctive agarwood topnote that blends so well with holiday spices. Worth seeking out a bottle on the internet.

Happy Holidays!
xx
Barbara

Nanette ~ Nanette Lepore

2011-11-04T15:56:00.013-04:00

The fabulous boyfriend and I were perfume shopping a few weeks ago (yes, isn't it great that he tolerates this??), and that's when I met Nanette for the first time...

At once struck by the elegant bottle (Nanette herself said it was inspired by a vintage perfume bottle she saw in Florence, Italy), I spritzed hesitantly. I say hesitantly because I was familiar with her other perfumes, which - while housed in really fun, colorful bottles - failed to move me. But this...this was beautiful!

Immediate impressions: warm, rich, and sophisticated. It is classically structured, but not stuffy; there is a touch of youthful playfulness in it that I love. The opening is spicy with a noticeable peppery bite, tempered by neroli and rose absolute. As it develops, the rose and violet become more apparent (Nanette added a violet note as a tribute to her daughter, Violet). My favorite part is the drydown, when the woody incense makes its appearance. Incense can be a difficult element to get just right in a fragrance, but here it is done to perfection, lending the perfume a smoldering, sexy edge. Amber - one of my favorite notes - is very prominent as well, adding its dry sweetness to the finish. The boyfriend's verdict? He loved it.

I didn't buy a bottle right there, as I have so many perfumes now that I am forcing myself to become very selective, but the longer this stayed on my skin, the more I wanted it. Imagine my delight when I went online and found large bottles priced under $25! Needless to say, I'm going to stock up on this beauty.

Ideal seasons to wear: fall, winter

Official notes: pink pepper, rose, neroli, violet, muguet, amber, incense and cedar.

Launched in 2009 by nose Anne Flipo (who has created many niche scents, including many in the L'Artisan line).

Happy sniffing!

The Scent of Halloween

2011-10-29T12:49:00.009-04:00

Halloween is upon us, and there are two fragrances that beg to be worn this weekend ~ Tom Ford's Black Orchid and Dior's Midnight Poison. Both have that dark, mysterious, spooky (in a sexy way) vibe that is just perfect this time of the year. So, if you're looking for that perfect Halloween perfume, look no further than these beauties...

Those of you who follow my blog are well aware of my love of and devotion to Black Orchid. I wear it year-round, but it truly comes alive this time of year. There is mystery and magic in it...it will swirl around you weaving its seductive spell wherever you go...

• Sensuous top notes of Black Truffle and Ylang mingled with fresh Bergamot and delectable Black Currant.
• Dramatic middle notes of dark, tempting Florals and rich Fruit Accords. The heart is deepened with the intoxicating Lotus Wood.
• Decadent base notes of Patchouli, Incense and Vetiver. Vanilla Tears add a fluid creaminess to warm Balsam and smooth Sandalwood.

(list of notes courtesy of Neiman Marcus)

Midnight Poison opens with a roar of patchouli and bergamot...but no need to be afraid! In about twenty minutes, it mellows into a sexy, warm, and spicy potion. Never too sweet, this one retains a crisp brightness through the drydown. The rose weaves in and out, lending the composition a melancholy, darkly romantic feel. A clean musk also emerges late in the drydown.

It is intoxicating. If Black Orchid is a bit much for you, yet you want a similar feel, Midnight Poison would be perfect.

Official notes:

mandarin orange, bergamot, rose absolute, patchouli, amber, ambrox and Bourbon vanilla

(list of notes courtesy of ozmos)

Happy Halloween!

Just Me ~ Montana

2011-09-27T18:15:00.008-04:00

Autumn is here, but remnants of summer still linger, and it's during this transitional time of year that I especially crave one of my favorite scents - Just Me by Montana.

Created in 1998 by nose Francoise Caron, Just Me opens with a big burst of spicy, honeyed leather, spiked with an unusual pineapple note that hints of the tropics. A dash of ginger gives it some zing. As the drydown continues, the lovely jasmine makes its appearance, weaving in and out of the composition for a few hours. My favorite part is the basenotes: an absolutely gorgeous leather/musk with hints of chocolate. While there is a lot going on in this fragrance, it never overpowers or becomes too sweet, but rather melts into a second skin. Really quite sexy. It deserves to get much more attention in the perfume world.

Just Me is one of those perfect go-to scents when you just can't make up your mind what perfume to wear, as you can dress this one up or down: it would be equally at home paired with jeans, a business suit, or an evening gown. Can be had for quite a bargain on the internet, too (I've seen bottles for less than $20!!).

Ideal seasons to wear: fall, winter

Happy Sniffing!

Barbara

Delices ~ Cartier

2011-08-08T00:54:00.005-04:00

Summer's in full swing, and the cherries are fabulous! Today, whilst practically gorging myself on a big bowl of perfect, fresh cherries, Cartier's Delices perfume came to mind. Launched in 2006, and created by the talented nose Christine Nagel, Delices is a charming fruity-floral based around a rich cherry note, but it's not cheeky; this is for the grown-ups. Opening with a beautiful, transparent sweetness, it melts into the skin and surrounds you softly, like a silk scarf. The pink pepper sharpens the cherry note and tempers the sweetness, and the violet and jasmine come out to play once in a while before the scent settles into its oriental base. It's available in both EDT and the parfum; I prefer the richer parfum. The bottle is absolutely stunning - one of the most beautiful I've ever seen.

Treat yourself to a bowl of cherries every day with this beauty!

Notes include pink pepper, cherry, Sicilian bergamot, freesia, violet, pink, white and yellow jasmines, tonka bean, amber, sandalwood. The line includes eau de toilette, perfume, body cream, body milk, and shower gel.

Coco ~ Chanel

2011-06-20T19:50:00.005-04:00

I was eighteen when I first met Coco. Newly released (1984), it captured my heart immediately. The sales assistant said I was "too young" to pull it off, but I didn't care. I bought the largest bottle they had and wore it exclusively for about four years. Then, as we all do, I ventured away from my first love, found other perfumes, and forgot about poor Coco...

Well, she's back! My boyfriend and I were shopping in Sephora a couple of weeks ago, and he wanted to buy me a bottle of something special. We smelled many old standbys, and some new releases, but nothing was really grabbing me. Then I saw her, my old friend Coco (not to be confused with the newer Coco Mlle.). I spritzed some on my neck, the boyfriend loved her, and we took her home.

She's just as beautiful as ever. The EDP is my preferred concentration, as it's more lush. Wearing it, I am transported to the Italian coast, with gorgeous frangipani, mimosa, rose, and jasmine wafting through the tropical breezes. When the aldehydes in the topnotes burn off, the scent really blooms on the skin and floats around you like a veil of heaven. The drydown is subtly sweet warmth and loveliness. Yes, I'm waxing poetic, and not many scents deserve that...but Coco does. Try her yourself, and fall under the spell....

Top Notes
Angelica, Mimosa, Frangipani, Mandarin
Middle Notes
Cascarilla, Orange Flower, Bulgarian Rose, Jasmine
Base Notes
Labdanum, Ambrette Seed, Opopanax, Benzoin, Tonka, Vanilla
list of notes courtesy of Basenotes.com

Jasmin Noir - Bvlgari

2011-05-20T14:00:00.011-04:00

Sensual and provocative, Jasmin Noir is quickly becoming one of my favorites (not to be confused with "Mon Jasmin Noir", which is newer and more floral in nature). Released in 2008, and classified as a woody oriental, the EDP version of this scent is voluptuous, yet still retains the subtle restraint for which the house of Bvlgari is well-known. Opening notes reveal a gorgeous melange of jasmine sambac, gardenia, and licorice: very heady and mysterious. It quickly mellows to a warm skin scent as the creamy almond and other woods appear, adding to its allure. It is not overly sweet - this is a grown-up fragrance. Lasting power is very good; I can still smell this in my hair and clothes the next day. Haven't tested the EDT version yet, but I'm sure there are some subtle differences. Do comment if you've experienced it.

Jasmin Noir is an intimate fragrance, one for lovers to enjoy, but it would also be wonderful for an elegant evening out. The bottle is sophisticated and gorgeous. If you enjoy fragrances like Boucheron's Trouble or Tom Ford's Black Orchid (or if you can remember "By" by Dolce and Gabanna), do give JN a spritz. It's more subtle and far less sweet than any of those scents, but still has the same effect.

Official notes: green sap, gardenia, sambac jasmine absolute, satin almond, precious woods, tonka bean and licorice.

Madison Square Park - Bond No. 9

2011-05-03T21:23:00.001-04:00

Just received my sample of this charming fragrance in the mail this weekend, and I can't stop spritzing it. I'm clearly craving fresh (spring!) scents, and this fits the bill perfectly. With notes of grass, grape hyacinth, huckleberry, red leaf rose, red hunter tulip, teakwood, and vetiver, this is an invigorating scent that just makes me feel happy. I much prefer it to Bond's High Line (also marketed as a "clean" scent); where High Line is screechy and high-pitched, Madison Square Park is mellow and delicious. Dries down to a sweet skin scent. A cheeky bonus: the green flower is actually a detachable bracelet!

Is it cutting edge? No. Worth the hefty price tag? Mmm...probably not. I do expect something edgier and with better lasting power for the price. But, when a girl just needs to breathe the fresh spring air, Madison Square Park will be there for you....

L’Eau d’Issey ‘Fleur de Bois' - limited edition

2011-04-11T20:27:00.004-04:00

Released last year as a limited edition flanker, but still available online, I just smelled this for the first time last week. It is divine. Created by one of my favorite noses, Jacques Cavallier, this scent blends mimosa, rose, freesia, fruity notes, Virginia cedar, amber and musk. Unlike the original L'Eau (which I don't care for but is hugely successful), Fleur de Bois has a sweet, tropical vibe that somehow manages to stay restrained and fresh. The unique bottle is made of raw beech wood (harvested from sustainably managed forests) which have gone under iron brushes to reveal the ridges, like driftwood.

If you enjoy classics like Fracas, I definitely recommend trying this one.

Sweet Spring Fragrances!

2011-03-21T21:34:00.006-04:00

I love my dark, mysterious orientals, but when springtime rolls around, I find myself craving sweet, playful fragrances that make me feel girly! So, here are a few of my top picks for perfumes that do just that (and they all have adorable bottles!)...

Miss Dior Cherie is a wonderful fragrance that makes me want to do cartwheels in a sunny field. With notes of mandarin, jasmine, strawberry leaf, wild strawberry, violet, musk, caramel popcorn (yes, you read that right!), patchouli and sorbet, this will make you feel like a kid all over again!

Perfectly named, Hanae Mori "Butterfly" has become a beloved favorite of many women for good reason! While it is breezy and playful, the wood notes give it a touch of sophistication. With top notes of red fruits (wild strawberries, blackberries, black currants and bilberries), a middle note that is floral (Bulgarian rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine and peony) and a woodsy base note (rosewood, almond wood, sandalwood and cedar), this is complex, yet subtle and airy. I feel euphoric when I wear it! EDP is my favored concentration...

Another sentimental favorite, Lolita Lempicka's distinctive licorice note makes it unique among its peers. Unabashedly sweet, yet tempered with green notes like ivy and violets, and a gorgeous musky drydown, this is another appropriately named perfume - you will feel like a Lolita wearing this. Notes include: ivy leaves, aniseed, amarena heart, violets, iris roots, vetiver, tonka bean, vanilla, musk.

Happy Spring, everyone!

Black Cashmere - Donna Karan

2011-02-19T19:10:00.028-04:00

If the book Wuthering Heights emanated a scent, this would be it. Dark, mysterious - and more than a little gothic - Black Cashmere is daringly unique. While I don't love it, I really admire it; I can see why it has a devoted cult following.

What does it smell like? Resinous and smokey. Think dry spices baking on rock, Catholic mass, sacred temples in which the incense has permeated the walls. Wearing it almost feels like a religious rite of passage. Dramatic? Yes, indeed, but this fragrance makes you stop in your tracks and think about it. When is the last time you reacted like that to a perfume?

I'm always astonished when I read reviews by those who find this a comforting scent; I think it quite the opposite. I wear it when I'm feeling introspective and contemplative, even a bit melancholic. It's the perfect accompaniment to a grey, rainy day spent by the fire.

The bottle is quite stunning and unusual. Donna Karan's late husband, a sculptor, designed it. It's pleasant to hold and spray, and suits the fragrance's mood well.

If I haven't scared you off, do try this one, if for no other reason than to smell something that is way out of the box. The saffron note alone is interesting and unusual. If you love it, you may want to try the niche line Comme des Garçons. They have a fantastic incense series, albeit quite pricey.

Do you have a Heathcliff in your life? This would smell amazing on a man, too.

Official notes: saffron, clove, rose, white pepper, ethiopian incense, vanilla, amber, patchouli, african wenge wood.

~Barbara

Perfume Poll

2011-02-13T19:09:00.000-04:00

Ok, readers, it's time to hear it from you! What are you favorite perfumes for: daytime, night, romance?? List as many as you like!

Asja - Fendi

2011-02-12T15:08:00.004-04:00

Introduced in 1992, Asja is one of the last "power" scents to hit the market before the squeaky-clean 90s fragrances took over. While it never reached the status of an Opium or Poison, Asja deserves its place in that league, though it is much more subtle than its contemporaries.

The initial burst of clove and carnation settles quickly into a delicious skin scent reminiscent of a plummy spiced wine. It is rather somber and melancholic, but not in a bad way - it's the perfect scent for when I'm feeling introspective and languorous. Wearing it is like being wrapped in a jewel toned cashmere blanket: exotic, yet comforting. It's also sexy; a slow seduction in a candlelit room...

Official notes:

Top - apricot, raspberry, peach, citruses and bergamot; middle - mimose, nutmeg, honey, carnation, cinnamon, orchid, orris root, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, bulgarian rose and egyptian jasmine; base - sandalwood, amber, musk, benzoin, vanilla, cedar and styrax.

Brit Red - Burberry

2011-02-02T15:54:00.005-04:00

I generally don't like to think of perfumes as being "seasonal"; I'm of the opinion that if you like something, wear it all year! There are, however, occasional exceptions - Brit Red is one of them. It's so evocative of winter/Christmas to me. Classified as a fruity oriental, its notes include green mandarin, rhubarb, red rose, gingerbread, vanilla and patchouli. While it sounds like sweetness overload, the rhubarb and red rose lift the fragrance and lend it a cool crispness. I start craving this around the holidays and wear it through late winter. Originally created in 2004 as a limited edition flanker of the original Brit, it is still widely available for a reasonable price. Heat up your winter days and nights with this warm beauty!

Pacifica

2011-01-29T14:36:00.002-04:00

I adore Pacifica products. Brook Harvey-Taylor, the creator and founder, has created a wonderful line of soaps, candles, and perfumes that are not only smell fantastic, but are affordably priced and beautifully packaged. My favorites? Tibetan Mountain Temple, Spanish Amber, Tuscan Blood Orange, and Mexican Cocoa. You can find them at Whole Foods and other retailers, or on their website. Try them all!

Lolita Lempicka

2011-01-04T19:45:00.002-04:00

I long to live in an enchanted forest, where faeries frolic happily and magic is in the air. Until then, I can be transported there by one of my favorite indulgences, Lolita Lempicka. It's an enchanting fragrance that gently balances the sweetness of ivy leaves and aniseed with delicate violet and iris root, and finishes with a smooth hint of vanilla and musk. The overall effect is one of playful purity and joie de vivre. And the bottle is one of the most charming ever created...a lavender colored, apple shaped beauty with golden ivy leaves winding around it. Though Lolita has been around for quite a few years, I never tire of it, and it always seems fresh and unique.

Yves Rocher - Neonatura Cocoon

2010-11-21T20:34:00.010-04:00

Aaaah, Cocoon...how do I love thee? You know that lovely smell when you open a fresh tin of really good cocoa? Well, throw in a dash of coffee, a hint of patchouli, and the tiniest whisper of vanilla, and you've got Cocoon. Contrary to what the notes suggest, this isn't a sticky sweet gourmand; it's grounded and earthy. I love to wear it after a rough day at the office; it relaxes me instantly. Even its bottle is soothing to the touch. And the price? It can be had for a steal at Yves Rocher's website. Spritz away!!

Musing...

2010-10-25T21:29:00.002-04:00

Have I told you about the scent of jasmine? Have I spoken about the smell of the sea? The earth is scented. And I perfume myself to enhance what I am. That's why I can not wear a perfume that bothers me. Perfuming is an instinctive wisdom. And like all art, it requires some knowledge of yourself..."
Clarice Lispector ( 1920-1977) - Perfumes da Terra / Earth Perfumes

2008-09-26T16:20:00.002-04:00

M7 - Yves Saint Laurent

2008-06-24T21:02:00.028-04:00

M7 was the first men's scent released by YSL after Tom Ford took over as creative director. Mr. Ford is known for creating fragrances with bold personalities, and M7 is no exception. Developed by noses Alberto Morillas and Jacques Cavallier, M7 leaps out of the bottle with the medicinal (yet strangely attractive) scent of agarwood and vetiver. Though I usually dislike a heavy-handed dose of vetiver, it works so well here, infusing the scent with an unquestionably masculine edge. Blending with the skin, it transforms into a deeply sexual, primal fragrance.

With top notes of bergamot, mandarin, and rosemary, mid-notes of vetiver, agarwood, and basenotes of amber, musk, and mandrake root, M7 is extremely aromatic, dry, earthy, and dark. It does acquire a bitter sweetness as the drydown progresses; some detect a raspberry accord in its final stages, but on my skin it smelled more like cherries marinating in brandy.

M7 would suit a man who is a rugged individualist, who is perhaps even a bit dangerous. It needs to be paired with a black leather jacket and an attitude (or nothing at all, as the controversial full frontal European ads suggest). One of the sexiest modern fragrances for men.

For the Men - Burberry London

2008-06-01T20:22:00.021-04:00

Created in 2006 by Antoine Maisondieu of Givaudan, London was an effort to help Burberry celebrate its 150th anniversary. The Burberry website describes it as " a refined and elegant woody ambery fragrance". It is, indeed, a scent for a gentleman, but not a stuffy gentleman. This is tweed with a twist.

Top notes include fresh bergamot, black pepper, lavender, spicy cinnamon leaves. Its heart of leather, mimosa flower notes, and port wine concludes with a base of tobacco leaves, guaiac wood, dense oak moss, and soft opoponax. The journey is at once familiar, yet surprisingly seductive.

Upon first sniff, imagery abounds: a walk in a cool balsam forest, libraries with leather bound books, port by the fire, halls of academia, cinnamon bread baking in the oven. This scent growls with a compelling, deep resonance. If London were a person, it would be Sean Connery. The rest of us mere mortals can be grateful for its existence.

Isabella - John Keats

2008-05-23T17:19:00.001-04:00

Parting they seem'd to tread upon the air,

Twin roses by the zephyr blown apart

Only to meet again more close, and share

The inward fragrance of each other's heart.

Jungle L'Elephant ~ Kenzo

2008-05-23T13:30:00.003-04:00

Think spices. Lots and lots of glorious spices. This scent transports me to a Marrakech outdoor market where pungent, exotic smells are lifted by warm breezes. With notes that include mandarin, cardamom, caraway, clove, heliotrope, ylang-ylang, mango juice, licorice, patchouli, vanilla, and casmerin, this is not a scent for shrinking violets. Jungle is a scent that will get noticed.

The overall effect is warm, round, and smooth on the skin, with an incense-like quality. Most would say that Jungle is best worn during cooler weather, but I also find it beautiful in the summer mingling with soft breezes. Lasting power is extraordinary - I can still smell it on my skin the following day. As there are no florals or other obviously feminine qualities about it, some men might like it. My guess is that most folks who wear Jungle will be eccentric...artists, hippies, urban intellectuals. It would smell more at home at a poetry reading than lunch at the country club.

Jungle is one of those scents I crave, a staple in my fragrance wardrobe. It is at once comforting and energizing, soothing and arousing - a gorgeous paradox in a bottle. Love it or hate it, you owe it to yourself to experience this unique creation at least once.

2008-05-18T09:41:00.002-04:00

Trouble - Boucheron

2008-05-17T23:22:00.000-04:00

Trouble (created by Jacques Cavallier,one of my favorite noses), is a delicious melange of jasmine sambac, lemon, blue cedar, digitalis, amber, and vanilla. The overall effect is thick, rich, and carnal. The first time I smelled Trouble, it took me less than a second to know I would never want to be without a bottle of this fragrance. No, it isn't wildly innovative or original, but I just lust after this bewitching beauty...which is, I'm sure, just the reaction its creator intended.

Right from the start, Trouble is lush and dense, yet not overpowering. The jasmine sambac is lovely; it mingles with a sweet lemon topnote reminiscent of the old-fashioned lemon drop candies. After about an hour, the lemon and jasmine calm considerably as the woods and vanilla emerge, and it quickly settles into a softly sweet skin scent. Very sexy, very erotic. Trouble is often (and rightly) compared to Dior's Addict, but Addict is smokier with higher pitched florals. If you enjoy Addict but wish it were a bit softer, definitely sample Trouble.

This isn't the sort of fragrance you wear to the office or to lunch with the girls. Trouble is a perfume that should be saved for intimate moments, or evenings out paired with an elegant dress. I've read some reviewers who say they consider this a comfort scent, and I can understand why, but I really think this fragrance shines best in its intended place: the boudoir.

For the Men - the house of Bvlgari

2008-05-17T21:30:00.001-04:00

Bvlgari, an Italian design house famous for its exquisite jewelry and watches, is also a fragrance house which I greatly admire. Their scents and elegantly designed bottles embody class and sophistication, and are perfect for men who prefer their fragrances subtle and refined. I will be reviewing four of my favorites from the men's line: Bvlgari pour homme, Extreme, Blv, and Soir.

Bvlgari pour homme: Created in 1995, and classified as a fougere, Bvlgari is a refreshing, woody fragrance. Top notes are Bergamot, Lavender, Mandarin, Aldehydes. Middle notes: Pepper, Coriander, Geranium, Carnation. Base notes: Cedar, Amber, Tonka, Oakmoss. It also contains rosewood, musk, green tea, and vetiver. The overall effect is crisply herbal, very subtle, yet has good sillage and lasting power. The musk adds a sensual touch to the drydown. It's a quiet scent, therefore perfect for the office or other conservative gatherings, but would also work well with jeans on the weekends. It's just a nice, clean, natural scent.

Bvlgari Extreme: Created to be a more intense, longer lasting version of pour homme. Extreme has the added zing of grapefruit in the topnotes, so if you loathe citrus in your fragrances, better steer clear of this one. I personally prefer this over the original, as it has a little more spunk and character. It does indeed last longer than pour homme and has greater sillage. A dear friend of mine wears this almost exclusively, and it suits him so well that I will always associate it with him. One of my all-time favorites for men.

Bvlgari Blv: Here's where things get interesting. Blv is a love-it-or-hate-it type of fragrance, very unusual. It opens with spicy notes of ginger, galanga and cardamom that mingle with the silkier notes of tobacco blossom, juniper, and gingko. This fresh accord gradually merges with warmer notes of grey teak, sandalwood, cedarwood and musk, with the overall effect being a spicy, icy/hot blend. I sigh a big "aaaah" every time I smell this; something about it is soothing yet energizing. Blv is still clean smelling (in keeping with the Bvlgari aesthetic), but it has a bigger, spicier personality than its brothers. The ginger is very apparent throughout and lends a modern edge to the scent. Worth trying if you aren't afraid to wear something unique.

Bvlgari Soir: A wonderful scent with an apt name, as it is a perfect evening scent. With notes of Darjeeling Tea, guaiac wood of Paraguay, amber, and musk, the overall feel is a sweeter, bolder version of the original pour homme. There is something about it (maybe tonka?) that reminds me of Armani Code, but Soir is more restrained and abstract. It's probably the "sexiest" scent in Bvlgari's men's line, and would complement pour homme or Extreme nicely in a man's fragrance wardrobe.

If you know a man (or are one yourself!) who normally shies away from wearing fragrance because they all seem "too loud" or "strong", please do yourself a favor and try the Bvlgari line. You just might find that elusive, perfect scent.

Stella - Stella McCartney

2008-05-16T12:22:00.002-04:00

Ah, spring. The perfect time of year to review one of my favorites for the season - Stella. Created by Jacques Cavallier in 2003, Stella is a perfume based around two notes: rose and amber. Personally, I am not generally a rose perfume fan (most smell too bitter for my taste), so I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed Stella. This isn't your grandmother's rose; it is voluptuous and modern. Ms. McCartney is quoted as saying:

"I wanted to capture the fragility of the high summer rose when the petals are just about to fall off. It's not about skipping around the country in a frilly skirt on a summer day."

She has succeded. This scent transports me to a rose garden heavily saturated with early morning dew. While the opening is pleasantly crisp (the mandarin gives a refreshing lift to the floral notes), the topnotes fade quickly to reveal a scent that is lush and full. The amber, which can dominate a scent, is only a suggestion here; very restrained and never overpowering, it adds a subtle spicy sweetness to the drydown that is very pleasing.

Stella is a linear fragrance - you won't find it hugely complex with lots of development, but its simplicity is part of its charm. I own the EDP, and it stays clean and refreshing, with medium sillage, and lasts all day on my skin. The parfum is richer with more emphasis on the rose note, but I prefer the EDP concentration. "Sheer" versions of Stella are launched every spring, which are generally airier and more fruity/floral in feel. The bottles of these limited editions are very pretty, and worth seeking out if you are a collector.

Discovering the scented world...

2008-05-15T17:10:00.010-04:00

My interest in perfume began as a young girl. My grandmother, an elegant and sophisticated woman, had a beautiful array of perfume bottles artfully displayed on her dressing table. They fascinated me. I was intrigued by their exotic names and the promises they held inside. I remember the excitement as I held them, feeling the sensual way the stoppers would slide out of the bottles as they slowly revealed the captive, seductive odor. Even at that young age, though I did not fully understand the intrigue, I knew that in smelling perfume one could experience a transportive euphoria. I was enamored.

Years later, I now have a full-blown obsession for perfume and the art of its creation. A truly great bottle of perfume is not merely a collection of notes, but is infused with the passion of a gifted artist. The painter or dancer creates visual beauty, the musician thrills our ears, but the perfumer's task is more elusive: he must create an invisible cloak of seduction which comes alive through our sense of smell. A well composed perfume is a symphony for the nose which sings to our soul. We cannot get enough of it. That is the secret of its power and a testament to the vision of its creator.

Perfume allows us to express who we are without words. It has the ability to instantly transport us to another place, another time. It awakens memories from our past and encourages our hopes for the future. It speaks to our emotions, creates a mood, makes us feel desirable and special. My hope is that your adventures with scent take you places you've never been before...

"Perfume is like a parenthesis, a moment of freedom, peace, love and sensuality in between the disturbances. Perfume makes silence talk." - Sonia Rykiel

Black Orchid - Tom Ford

2008-05-15T17:00:00.016-04:00

Sometimes, it's best to play it safe with your perfume. But, there are times when a bit of risk taking is in order...

Enter Black Orchid by Tom Ford. To me, it's scent nirvana; to others, repulsion in a bottle. Its controversial nature is also what makes it so fascinating to smell. Right out of the bottle, it screams "I am perfume, hear me roar": it's so thick, it gives the impression of velvet on the skin. Earthy truffle (the mushroom, not the chocolate confection; it's likely the offending note for those who dislike this perfume), ylang, black currant, patchouli, woods, spices, orchid, balsam, smooth vanilla, vetiver, and incense all combine to create a perfume with a brooding, aggressive personality. If Wuthering Heights were a perfume, this would be it. It really comes into its own on moody weather days, or at night.

Tom Ford is a bold, controversial figure in the world of fashion, and he certainly brought his personality into this scent. He didn't want to create a "safe" perfume, but one that would make the consumer think. Thus, this is a perfume for a person of strong personality who doesn't mind creating a bit of a stir or being the center of attention. I've received more curious comments and enthusiastic compliments wearing this perfume than any others in my collection (Jungle L'Elephant by Kenzo comes in second).

There is more than a touch of magic in that lovely black bottle. If you decide you adore it, be prepared: you don't choose Black Orchid - it chooses you.